Eating in the Carmen neighbourhood will no longer be a tourist attraction. Valencians will recover the tradition of traditional cuisine, based on local produce, just behind the Cathedral and, of course, very close to the Central Market, a regular supplier to Barravás, the soulful restaurant that, from C/ Juristas, has occupied the space left by the legendary ‘Bodegó de la Sarieta’ and, with its La Marxa cocktail bar, keeps the spirit of Olga Poliakoff alive. Two essential places for boomers who will return to their roots, renewed thanks to the initiative of businessman Rafa Pérez Higón.
La Sarieta, which fed thousands of Valencians for 50 years, and Olga Poliakoff, the renewer of contemporary dance in Valencia, marked an era for those who live in the Carmen neighborhood, not for Erasmus students or cruise ship passengers. Now, Barravás and La Marxa want to maintain that closeness, that security that comes from knowing you won’t be disappointed with quality, timeless food in a place you’ll want to return to because it’s local, because it’s modern, because the atmosphere is cool and authentic.
“I take on this challenge responsibly, knowing that the land I’m standing on has marked an era,” explains Rafa Pérez Higón, the driving force behind these spaces. He adds, “But I do so with the peace of mind of having a great team that will make many people happy, and also with respectful nods in homage to Olga and the Bodegó.”
Jesús Muñoz and Matías Sepúlveda are at the helm of the kitchen and have created a menu designed to be enjoyed, shared, and celebrated, emphasizing respect for the product and creativity. The menu, designed to surprise and excite, features a selection of dishes that pay homage to Mediterranean cuisine with contemporary twists and international touches. Bravas (fried potatoes), croquettes, Russian salad, Iberian acorn-fed ham, and a platter of artisan cheeses will be featured. You can enjoy a confit artichoke, opened in the shape of a flower, crowned with a cured yolk cooked at a low temperature for two hours and accompanied by crispy Serrano ham in a combination that balances softness and texture. Valencian oysters can also be enjoyed with a delicate pisco sour foam that provides freshness and acidity.
The steak tartare is marinated in a kimchi, soy, and extra virgin olive oil sauce, and finished with a slightly spicy egg yolk and crispy nori, creating a vibrant contrast between umami and spice. The shrimp carpaccio, meanwhile, is served in thin slices, finished with oil and shrimphead powder, intensifying the taste of the sea. The tuna, cooked in a mild, low-temperature marinade, is presented on an emulsion made with its own marinade, achieving a harmony of deep and delicate flavors.
For main courses, the paella and creative rice dishes, available off-menu depending on the market and season, will satisfy both the most conservative and those who like to innovate. The seafood fideuá will feature pickled shrimp and razor clams, garnished with saffron aioli. For main courses, with a nod to its origins, the sole Ménier and the ribeye steak with Padrón peppers. The hake will have a saffron bisque, or you can enjoy a roasted lamb shank with truffled parmentier. And of course, all washed down with Agua de Valencia or Sangria and, of course, the best local wines.
To round out the experience, the desserts elevate tradition with an innovative twist. The torrija is infused overnight in flavored horchata and finished grilled with brown sugar, accompanied by mantecado ice cream and horchata foam. Finally, a rendition of the mango pavlova is presented: creamy mascarpone with vanilla, diced mango and its purée, crispy meringue flakes, and freeze-dried mango, providing texture and freshness in every bite.
Cocktails at Marxa, a venue that pays homage to Olga Poliakoff, will put the finishing touches or make the experience start with even more joy.
Jesús Muñoz trained in Valencia, where he has lived since childhood, although he was born in Madrid. He has worked in several European countries, always focusing on local and seasonal produce, including at exclusive Scandinavian ski resorts such as Copperhill Mountain Lodge in Sweden and at premium golf clubs. His cuisine combines northern techniques with Valencian tradition.
Matías Sepúlveda is the creative chef who started in Chile at the Aqua restaurant before moving to New Zealand to gain restaurant experience. From there, he joined Ricard Camarena, participated as a speaker at Madrid Fusión and Gastrónoma, and now, at Barravás, delighting us with his creations based on respect for the product.
Report by ‘24/7 Valencia’ team
Article copyright ‘24/7 Valencia’
‘Barravas’ photos copyright@leclick
Barravas
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