The Valencian neighbourhood of Ruzafa is renowned for its vibrant nightlife and bustling bar scene. However, during the day, it unveils a different charm. Its labyrinthine streets beckon exploration, adorned with unique street art at every turn and often showcasing magnificent architecture that captivates the eye.
The gothic San Valero Church of Baroque style sits proudly opposite the revered ‘Mercat de Russafa’, which was designed in the ‘Brutalist’ style and opened in 1957. On the outside, the market is attractive for its myriad of bright colours that now adorn the facades. Indeed, it has become accepted as one of the vast array of architectural beauties of Valencia. The market is host to over 160 stalls of culinary delights, being the second largest market in the city after Mercado Central. Products are locally sourced, from fish and seafood, to numerous butcher stands, algae and mushrooms, and vegetables that are so rich in colour and shape you almost don’t want to chop them up and cook them.
Dating back to the 19th century, the market was established to account for the growing population of Ruzafa, and it remains a staple of the neighbourhood today, providing not just a place to source local ingredients, but a hub to socialise in and build connections over a coffee. The market’s vendors, many of whom are long standing fixtures, are known for their expertise and dedication to providing the finest products to their customers, who come back time and time again.
Also a stone’s throw from Mercado de Ruzafa is ‘Parque Central’, offering locals and visitors alike a tranquil retreat from the busy streets, while also hosting cultural events and outdoor activities throughout the year. The former railway yard turned green space is the perfect place to watch the sunset whilst the peaceful buzz of the day unfolds into the electric night of Ruzafa.
On the outskirts of Ruzafa
On C/ Castellón, on the way to Ruzafa, stands the elegant Valencian art deco building known as ‘Casa Judia’ translating to the Jewish House, distinguished by the Star of David adorning its entrance. Constructed in 1930 by Valencian architect Juan Guardiola under the commission of José Salom, this building serves as a testament to the myriad influences that have shaped Valencia, encompassing both Hebrew motifs and traces of the city’s rich Arab heritage.
Report by Abi Kara-Fernandes
Photos copyright Abi Kara-Fernandes / ’24/7 Valencia’
San Valero Church
Carrer del Pare Perera, 6,
L’Eixample,
46006 València
Mercat de Russafa
Pl. del Baró de Cortés
L’Eixample,
46006 València
Parque Central
C/ de les Filipines s/n
46006 València
Casa Judia
C/ de Castelló, 20,
Ensanche,
46004 Valencia
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