AN AFTERNOON VISIT TO RUZAFA AND PARQUE CENTRAL!

When visitors come to Valencia, it is common for them to stick to the city centre, seeing the Plaza de Reina and the streets that are filled with tables for the outdoor seating of the countless restaurants that line each passageway. But just a little south of the bustling city centre is Ruzafa, a once-humble barrio that now boasts a beautiful park, intriguing second-hand stores, and a lively nightlife.

My first stop on my afternoon trip to this barrio was the Parque Central. I passed by some buildings with the classic red Spanish tile, which contrasted sharply with the bright blue sky. Entering the park, I immediately smelled the sweetness of the plants all around me, a welcome breath of fresh air after leaving the noise of cars and main roads behind. I walked slowly, taking in every plant and flower that was blooming. Some of them were even labelled, so I could read about the history of the plant’s presence in Spain or about what it is commonly used for. And it wasn’t just random plants that needed explanations: I easily identified apple, orange, fig, and lemon trees.

As I continued to walk through the gardens, I smelled the tuberose flowers and rested for a while out of the sun. I admired the wall on the opposite end of the entrance, seeing its wave-like pattern that allowed plants to grow in it and then grow out, tumbling down the side of the wall like a cascade of green. Just above this wall was a row of palm trees, the ever-present reminder that the Mediterranean is just a short bus ride away.

Strolling through the park I dipped in and out of shade and sunlight, both of which have claimed their spots in the park and provide the perfect respite for anyone who decides to visit. A couple of people were out and about, enjoying the day in the park, either walking around or laying on a blanket in the sun. However you want to spend your time in the Parque Central, it will have a place for you.

Leaving the park I walked up the Carrer de Puerto Rico, making sure to take a stop at Madame Mim’s vintage and second-hand store, although it felt more like an emporium to me. From knick-knacks and trinkets to full costumes and wigs, Madam Mim’s was full of surprises. Books, leather jackets, sunglasses, signs—it was all there. Even a priest’s robe was hanging in a display case. Haunting but jazzy music played throughout the whole store, creating an aura of wonder akin to that of Halloween night. Even after I left the store, I was still thinking about some of the curiosities I had seen.

My next stop was the Mercat de Russafa, but on my way there I couldn’t help but notice the architecture all around me, as well as the various storefronts that welcomed me in. Though the architecture was very ornate, much like that of the rest of Valencia, the storefronts were very hip, honest, and almost a bit jarring to see beneath the classical beauty of the apartments above. One second-hand vintage store I passed had a leather jacket hanging from the door that read “No More Fast Fashion Please”. Just down the road was a storefront that was closed, but on the sliding metal door was painted an old-timey red car that shone out from the dusty metal. I kept walking but took in every detail because everything felt so richly full of personality that was unfiltered and honest, in a cool way.

The Mercado de Ruzafa, unlike most that I have seen in my time in Valencia, was fairly hidden behind all the buildings and narrow streets. Once I found it, I was welcomed in by the scent of fresh meats and cheeses. Butchers looked out at me, shaving slices of ham off the bone or tallying their books. I passed the bakery, smelling croissants and pain au chocolat and napolitanas. Unable to resist any longer, I bought a chocolate napolitana. The powdered sugar was in just the right proportion so that the chocolate flavors shone through, without being tampered down by too much bread or sugar. I made my way outside again, passing fruit stands boasting the lowest prices I had seen for a basket of cherries yet.

I found a little park bench near a playground and sat to finish my snack and my packed lunch. As the kids played in front of me and the town began its siesta, I looked around at this little barrio that was similar to the rest of Valencia but still contained its own separate feel. Ruzafa is definitely a place where humble beginnings gave way to a spark of creativity that took over the whole barrio. Now, everywhere you walk, there is a new sign or store that has so much to offer everyone, even those visiting Valencia for only a few days.

To visit all the places I mentioned, please see the addresses below.

Parque Central: C. de les Filipines, s/n, L’Eixample, 46006, and visit their website at: https://valenciaparquecentral.es/.

Madame Mim: C. de Puerto Rico, 30, L’Eixample, 46006, and learn more on their Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/madame.mim.shop/.

Mercado de Ruzafa: Pl. del Baró de Cortés, s/n, L’Eixample, 46006, and visit their website at https://mercatderussafa.com/.

Report by Fiona Pacious