A series of murky affairs have made her change her native Sicily for Valencia, where she has just opened an extravagant trattoria under her own name, located in calle Conde Salvatierra, number 37. ‘La Mamma Pazzo’ has not arrived to start a new life, but to continue it, offering traditional and uncomplicated cuisine in three different and festive atmospheres, accompanied by good cocktails.
The story of Mamma Pazzo has to be told as a chronicle of events. For some months now, rumours have been circulating in the streets of Valencia that the most wanted Italian fugitive was hiding in the city with a very special mission: to open a new trattoria dedicated to the recipes of Southern Italy. Not forgetting her exquisite recipe for carbonara – oh, che carbonara -, which delights any diner. Because Mamma is a particular, hedonistic and somewhat rebellious woman, who has crossed the Mediterranean leaving behind several shady affairs, but always ready to continue her best life and to cook for the new members of the family.
Everybody’s Mamma, and at the same time nobody’s Mamma, has moved to Conde Salvatierra, nº 37, next to the Mercado de Colón, where she is opening a restaurant in her own image and likeness. Extravagant, playful, fun. This is a woman who is convinced that the conventional is in absolute bad taste, and that there is nothing more attractive than the outlandish. So, although recognisable and genuine pasta and pizza recipes will be served – everyone talks about the “deliziosa carbonara” that she served to her fellow citizens at the Taormina carnival – it will be done in three different settings – the Circo, the Giardino and the Club, hidden behind a bookshop – with that festive spirit that Pazzo, who knows how to spread happiness among her people, exudes.
The new restaurant has long opening hours (from 13:00h to 01:30h) and offers different alternatives for any time of the day: aperitif, lunch, afternoon or dinner. Any excuse is a good excuse to try the famous pastas, some of the cold dishes and enjoy the unique cocktail menu, which also bears her personal stamp. Because hedonism is at all hours and for all the world.
Italy is a country of traditions. From aperitivi in the afternoon to cappuccino for breakfast. There are also gnocchi for celebrations, lentils for New Year’s Eve and panettone for Christmas. From North to South, every moment has its own culinary custom, and the Valencian group Cosmic Group, which is behind the project – and others, such as the already well-known lounge cocktail bar Maison Lupin – wanted to preserve that essence. For this reason, both the lifestyle and the classic recipes of Southern Italy will play an important role. “We wanted to create a hedonistic corner full of memories and unforgettable moments, capable of transporting you through the cuisine and decoration,” explain the owners. “A temple of Italian cuisine, with authentic Sicilian corners, the bright colours of the Mediterranean and touches of nature from cities such as Taormina and Palermo.”
On the menu, diners will find dishes prepared with traditional, quality products, such as pasta al dente, parmigiano cheese and guanciale, among others. To whet your appetite, Mamma reveals some of her secret recipes especially for ’24/7 Valencia’ readers.
🤌🏻 La Grande Burrata. An antipasti from the vera cucina italiana, where the burrata is accompanied by pappa al pomodoro (a thick soup typical of Tuscany), yellow tomato confit and rocket pesto.
🤌🏻 La pizza Nonna Lucia di Pisa. On a fluffy dough, mozzarella, mushrooms, speck (lightly smoked ham) and grated truffle are added; that’s all it takes to touch the sky. Served on a plate in the shape of the Tower of Pisa, it’s a must in suo ricettario.
🤌🏻 Ravioli di Mozzarella di Bufala. An authentic dish, with basil, mountain herbs, pistachio and a tender guanciale. They say that every time the Pazzo prepared it, people sighed.
🤌🏻 And, to sweeten the after-dinner drink, Mamma’s tiramisu. A classic, fatti a casa.
There are as many chapters in Mamma’s story as there are cocktails that she has tasted in her life. She always preferred night to day, so it is no coincidence that this trattoria is also a place to celebrate and toast, whether in the evening or after a long evening. This good atmosphere is accompanied by the colourful and distinctive interior design in three clear spaces, each one for a different occasion: the Circo, with a large bar that welcomes you and various decorations reminiscent of the most traditional Italy; a little further on, the Giardino, with an interior lounge to serve lunch and dinner by reservation; and, behind the apparent bookshop at the back, a door that leads to the Club. An ideal place to let yourself be carried away by the music, the festive atmosphere and the drinks menu.
In Mamma Pazzo there are up to eight exclusive cocktail references, served in original glasses that speak of the life of our protagonist. Some of the most popular ones are:
🍸 The Berlusconi, with Campari, lime juice and passion fruit, among other secret ingredients. La Mamma gave it that name as a tribute to all the summer nights they drank together. It’s her way of saying gli manca.
🍸 The Maradona, served in a long glass, with tequila and spicy mango. La Pazzo still remembers the first time she saw him play on the pitch, back in the eighties, when he arrived at Napoli. What happened after that? Only she knows.
🍸 And of course, the Mamma Pazzo cocktail, with soft hints of lime and basil. Just as mysterious as its creator, it is actually the combination that the beautiful Mamma used to drink at home before going out to have fun at the big parties in Taormina, Sicily.
Ma che bella questa festa
What else can be said about Pazzo? She has no children and no husband, but everyone calls her Mamma. She started her bizarre life very young, in Taormina (Sicily), where she was known for being a great showgirl, having countless lovers, wild parties and other hidden passions. She has always had a good hand in the kitchen, something she has used to her own advantage to build a particular famiglia. She is judged by some, admired by others, for her carefree lifestyle dedicated to worldly pleasures. Her outspoken and rebellious attitude, coupled with the extravagant appearance she has never wanted to give up, make her an iconic and envied woman.
It is said that she always carries a diary with her. It is crimson red in colour and in it she writes down appointments with her lovers, but also the mischief she has been up to. Perhaps it is her best-kept treasure and the only one that can explain why she fled Italy. She is sure that, marked with a red ink pen, are the dates of her next parties, because… What would Mamma be without her revelry? In famiglia, with friends or even with Berlusconi himself. In Valencia, of course, she intends to continue the debauchery and, for this reason, she has already organised a circus show as an inauguration in mid-January.
Of course, it won’t be just any old party, but a Pazzo-style one, with dozens of guests from the world of communication, fashion and culture. There will be no shortage of card throwing, forbidden sins and juggling. A classic chronicle of events would add, right at the end, that a reward is offered to the person who manages to sneak into the meeting or knows something about Mamma Pazzo, the most wanted Italian fugitive. This one, however, sends a different message: “Mamma, we longed for your arrival. Here you will be free. Quel ch’è fatto, è fatto. Now all that remains is to enjoy this long and long-awaited party that has just begun.”
Report by ‘24/7 Valencia’ team
Article copyright ‘24/7 Valencia’
Conde Salvatierra, 37
Hours: 13.00h to 01.30h
Wednesdays to Sundays